The JT Insider Guide: Wellington, South Africa

We get the lowdown from Angelo Casu – who, along with his wife Tina, restored and now hosts guests at Grand Dédale on Doolhof Wine Estate – on Wellington’s best bits.

  

The Setting

On the Grapevine: 'Perfect for a somewhat old-school Cape Winelands experience, Wellington is a small town at the foot of the Groenberg Mountains, about an hour from the big city. The vineyard village is truly at the heart of South Africa’s wine industry, not just geographically, but also because most of the country’s material for vines comes from the local farms. As one local says, “It all starts in Wellington.” Wellington has unspoiled nature, away from the buzz.'

  

“You have a view of Wellington valley, the town and the landscape that, on a clear day, stretches as far as Table Mountain.”

The View

To the Horizon: 'The most spectacular view in my opinion is on a dirt road between Mischa and Welbedacht Wine Estates. From the top of a small ridge you have a view of Wellington valley, the town and the landscape that, on a clear day, stretches as far as Table Mountain.'

 
  

What to Do

Unexpected Relics: 'Go hiking and wine tasting, set out on a historic tour of the town or simply enjoy the unspoiled nature. I enjoy mountain biking, as the valley offers some challenging routes with breathtaking views. Wellington Museum houses a collection of local artefacts, and unexpected exhibits like one of the largest Egyptology collections in South Africa, and relics from the Sotho and Tswana tribal folk. Ouma Granny's House is a Victorian house with a priceless collection, while Anglo-Boer War Block House is a relic of the Anglo-Boer war and one of only 21 left in South Africa. Amongst all the Boutique wineries in the valley, you can visit Lelienfontein Vine Growers, which is the largest single vine nursery in Africa. The Bosman family has been growing vines since 1888.'

  

“Go hiking and wine tasting, set out on a historic tour or simply enjoy the unspoiled nature.”

Eat

Wild Food: 'Wellington is known for its slow food approach and wild boar meat because wild boars roam freely in our valleys. A restaurant called Twist some More specialises in wild boar delicacies.'

  

“Wellington is known for its slow food approach.”

Drink

In the Spirit: 'Besides wine, Wellington is known for its whisky production and Roger Jorgensen’s Distillery. The winemaker and Savingnac Potstill Brandy creator turned his hand to distillation in 1994, and now, with more than a decade of experience, transforms wild young wines into perfect amber Savingnac, as well as Primitiv vodka, Field of Dreams absinthe and Jorgensen’s Gin. These artisan spirits can be tasted with Roger himself on their historic family farm. James Sedgwick Distillery, which started way back in 1850, also produces two International award winning whiskies.'

 
  

Stay

Boutique Estate: 'Standing as proud testament to its old Cape heritage, Grand Dédale’s historic buildings have been carefully restored, in a beautiful landscaped setting. The rooms have been magnificently decorated, making it Wellington's most exclusive privately-owned country house,  accommodating 12 guests in sumptuous luxury.' 

'The Doolhof Estate is set in a remote valley, surrounded by the Groenberg, Limietberge and Hawekwa mountains. Grapes for wine and brandy making were introduced as early as 1728. The farm has been the jewel of the Bovlei valley for three centuries and the present owners have now built a winery with a tasting room.'

  

“You can be away from the buzz of the big city yet only 45 minutes from Cape Town.”

The Souvenir

Through the Generations: 'Wellington used to be known for its leather. Two shops, run by the same families for generations, still manufacture and sell these leather items.'

 
  

Last Word

At the Heart: 'In Wellington you can be away from the buzz of the big city yet only 45 minutes from Cape Town. Being at the heart of South Africa’s Winelands, you can also visit the surrounding villages like Darling, Tulbagh and Riebeek Kasteel. My wife and I believed that the town and beautiful valley needed to be showcased, and by opening Grand Dédale we have achieved our goal.'

For more information, please visit jacadatravel.com

Out and about in South Africa - Irish Sunday Independent

LIVING SUNDAY INDEPENDENT TRAVEL


Up in the rolling winelands of Wellington, the wonders don’t dim, they just change flavour. One person who knows plenty about this is Roger Jorgensen.
Describing himself as “just a farmer looking for an edge”, he began producing handcrafted, artisan spirits after the Apartheid ban on distillation was lifted. Jorgensen’s Distillery is now on the slow-food map for its potstill brandy, traditional spelt vodka and gin flavoured with wild herbs and berries. We’re welcomed like old friends to his period farmhouse, where, with phrases like “top-notes” and “accents”, he enraptures us about czars, stills and absinthe. “90% of our product stays in South Africa,” he smiles. “Local is lekker.”
We could stay all night but we have an appointment out at Bontebok Ridge, a private game reserve in the Limietberg Valley. The sun is setting as we drive slowly through the fynbos past zebra, springbok and wildebeest. Diffused dusk colours are washing the rocky hills in pinks and violets as our host pours buttery chardonnay for our “sundowner”. Bontebok Ridge fulfils a role as a place for busy Cape Town professionals to exhale, but it does the job for Irish ones too.

“Doolhof” is the old Afrikaans for “maze”, and the word lends itself to the Doolhof Wine Estate, where knots of cliffs and passes allow only one way in and out. Nestled in among the 380 hectares of vineyard, garden and horse paddock, the estate’s manor house presides. This is Grand Dedale, our five-star lodgings and the subject of many Lotto-fantasy conversations since.
Dressed in cool whites, greens and blues, the spacious 18th Century abode is disarming, from the second you step on to the long veranda. All is calm and collected. A couple swirl wine on the terrace and a cat pads along the polished marble floors. Our room is one of six individually appointed masterpieces of muted interior design. Less is more.

It’s all pleasingly understated, a quality prone to Southern Hemisphere nations. I’ve seen a New Zealander describe an All Black rugby stampede as “a bit of footie”. or Australians call cordon bleu food “good tucker”. South African’s have it in spades, that ability to let perfect sunsets, birds and beasts and dramatic landscapes do the talking. Under a full moon on the veranda of Grand Dedale, our tummies and souls smiling, we’re reminded that man is an impressive creature too. Lest we forget.

Grand Dedale
“VERY hard to find as well as leave” was our guest-book note at this jewel in the wine lands of Wellington, an hour from Cape Town. Once the private residence of the owners of the Doolhof wine estate, this extraordinarily tasteful five-star country hotel had some of the best cuisine, luxury and service we’d found on our trip — or anywhere, in fact. Make a promise right now, this instant, to visit Grand Dedale before you die.

Courtesy of Hilary A White

Top 5 wine farms stay in South Africa - courtesy of A Luxury Travel Blog

 

Wine lovers are spoilt for choice with accommodation in South Africa’s winelands. From 5-star hotels and luxury guest houses, to Cape Manor houses and boutique style lodging, the following establishments offer the highest standards of service, quality, and comfort. You’ll also find superb attractions such as restaurants and spas, and, of course, some of the country’s finest fruits of the vine.

Grand Dedale Country House

Situated on the Doolhof Wine Estate in Wellington, Grande Dedale is an elegantly restored Manor House that comprises 6 individually designed suites. An additional free standing thatch cottage is privately situated for honeymoons and special occasions. Outdoor activities on the estate include hiking, mountain biking, and horse riding, while the landscaped gardens, pool, and spa ensure a high level of relaxation and comfort.

Dining at Grand De Dale is an attraction on its own. Breakfast is a treat with homemade specialities and Cap Classique; light lunches and snacks are served throughout the day; and sundown aperitifs are followed by a 3-course table d’hôte menu of locally sourced game and seafood. Doolhof’s full range of wines is available for tasting and private cellar tours are available on request.

La Petite Ferme

The La Petite Ferme guest suites, restaurant, and boutique winery are set on a vineyard-lined mountainside, offering unrivalled views of the beautiful Franschhoek Valley. Although La Petite Ferme lies on a working wine farm, the Vineyard Suites and Manor House are anything but rural. Adjacent to the restaurant, the Manor House rooms have a sweeping view over Merlot vineyards. Overlooking vines of Sauvignon Blanc, the Vineyard Suites are individually themed with touches of décor from Africa to France, and each has a private plunge pool.

The restaurant has been listed by Conde Nast Traveller as one of the Top 15 Best Value establishments in the world. The legendary lunches at La Petite Ferme Restaurant reflect the creative energy of the talented chefs combined with a wealth of fresh local ingredients.

Asara Wine Estate and Hotel

Asara Wine Estate in Stellenbosch is home to an intimate, 5-star boutique hotel. The hotel has a relaxed atmosphere; with careful attention to detail and top class service ensuring guests enjoy a stay that is homely yet completely luxurious. Each room has a balcony with views over the vineyards, lake, or courtyard. No matter which room you choose, you’ll enjoy the atmosphere of a wine farm that is so different to everyday life.

A complimentary breakfast can be enjoyed at the lakeside restaurant, Raphael’s, while the Asara Deli offers delectable light lunches, freshly baked breads, sweet treats, and tempting handmade ice creams. Aside from the award-winning Winery, the Sansibar Whisky Lounge is an inviting sundowner spot where guests can enjoy a meal.

Rosendal Winery and Wellness Retreat

With its warm hospitality, rugged mountain backdrop, and exceptional wine and cuisine, the 4-star Rosendal Winery and Wellness Retreat offers a country guest house and spa experience in the Robertson Wine Valley. Rosendal is close to many of the attractions along Route 62 – the world’s longest wine route – where you’ll enjoy everything from wine and olive tasting to quirky galleries and challenging rock climbing. Alternatively, soak in the scenic landscape from your private veranda or enjoy a dip in the rim-flow pool.

Rosendal is ideal for romantic getaways and offers a range of all-inclusive packages that make it easier to budget for the holiday of your dreams. Enjoy a range of spa treatments, meals, and activities with the Romantic Treat, De-Stress, and Golf packages.

Delaire Graff

At the foot of the Stellenbosch Mountains, Delaire Graff Estate offers a sense of escape amongst leafy vineyards and perfectly manicured gardens. Delaire Graff not only appeals to wine lovers. Art collectors will be most interested in the Estate’s contemporary artworks that reflect the diversity of South Africa’s heritage.  Works by the likes of Vladimir Tretchikoff, Cecil Skotnes, William Kentridge, and Sidney Kumalo adorn the walls, while guests at the Lodge will enjoy Stephane Graff and the intensity of Ndikhumbule Ngqinambi’s work.

Each of the Lodges offers a spacious, light-filled living space that flows seamlessly to a private plunge pool, where guests can enjoy a chilled glass of Delaire Graff wine. A range of exclusive treatments are available at Delaire Graff Spa, which also features an infinity pool and heated Jacuzzi. Guests can feast on ‘bistro-chic’ cuisine at the Delaire Graff Restaurant, while the Indochine Restaurant offers Asian-inspired cuisine with a contemporary yet delicate twist.

Taking Absa Cape Epic training to the extreme

Closing to reach Du Toits Kloof pass with Riebeek-Kaastel in the background

This is a true account of how my Absa Cape Epic riding partner and I took training to the extreme.

It is Saturday 20th September, crisp morning but the sky promises a warm day to come. Clive and I decide to start early for one of our Absa Cape Epic training session and we depart for our ride at 08h15. As always, before a ride, I have some fried eggs on brown toast and some fruit to fuel my muscles; considering the ride we have planned for the day, I decide not to carry any additional food with me.

Our aim for the training is to do some serious climbing and ride an undiscovered single track which connect Du Toits Kloof pass to Bains Kloof pass, riding through the Hawequa Mountains; an estimated 50 km ride with 1355 m elevation in the first 20 km.
We set off from the foot of Bains Kloof pass, ride through some vineyards in the town of Wellington as we approach Olyvenbosch Road, at the top of Bouvlei Road.

That is were the serious climb starts; a mix of gravel, rocks, forest riding, mainly jeep track, at the foot of the imposing Hawequa mountain.
The rhythm is slow with an average speed of 7kmph; because we took a wrong turn we gain an extra climb, as if it was needed,and ended at a cul the sac with rewarding breathtaking views of Wellington and Riebeek-Kasteel.
We reconnect with the original track and keep on climbing until we reach the top of Du Toits Kloof pass and enter the Limietberg Nature Reserve through a private road, tarred and uphill, that lead to the Telkom Tower.
The climb to the Telkom tower is tough, although on tarred road, as it climbs for about 8km with a constant gradient. By the time we have reached the top we have rode for 17 km with an elevelation of 1355m.

We decide to take a break and admire the unsurpassed views of Paarl, Wellington, Riebeek-Kasteel and the majestic Table Mountain in the horizon from the Telkom tower whilst trying to determine at which point the two passes are joined by the single track.

After refilling our bottles with fresh mountain water we start the descent until we reach the start of a jeep track; this is it, our studies on Google map showed that the jeep track should lead to a single track which should ends at the top of Bains Kloof pass. So far our training has been fun and rewarding with the long climb.

The jeep track only runs for 2 km and soon after we found ourselves in thick fynbos bush and had to practice carrying our bikes; at the briefing we attended on 13th September we were told that a certain amount of bike carrying should be practiced so Clive and I were both happy that we encountered some challenging and difficult terrain.

But the fun soon stops; as we keep on walking into thick bush we realized that by now we are too committed to track back so we carry on; the path become thicker with more obstacle thrown our ways.We have to cross streams of water, climb and descend rocky areas and soon Clive gain some grounds on me as his Specialized carbon bike is much lighter than my Merida. We keep contact as we can see each other silhouettes and hear our voices echoing through the Limietberg valley.
It is now 14h30, the day has developed into a hot sunshine and luckily for us all the streams we have crossed have fresh and clean water in abundance, much needed now.

Clive and I lose contact at about 15h00; by that point I have reached a rock where I last saw him waiving his hands; below the rock I see some foot tracks going up the mountain and I start climbing. Around me just streams, fynbos and mountains that all looks the same. I check my IPhone and battery is low and beside I do not have reception, so I decide to switch it off to safe some battery and keep on climbing.

The adrenaline and determination keeps me going but by 18h15 I realized that I have to think of plan B; I stop on a rock and can see a white cement tower in front of me (I later realized it was the Telkom tower we rode to earlier); luckily I have cellphone reception and make contact with Clive, who made it safely home as eventually found the track, and my wife. Explain my location as best as I can and ask my wife to locate my phone with the Ipad application "find my phone" but only after I have reached my sheltered area which stand 30 minutes away from where I am making the phone call. We decide to reconnect at 19h00.

My shelter location is situated below a curved rock with a medium size Protea tree in the middle; I chop some thick fynbos to make a mattress and some larger trunks to build a small hut; the most spectacular room with a view in the midst of the Limietberg Nature Reserve. It is time now to make contact but I do not have cellphone reception!!!

Meanwhile Clive and my wife Tina have alerted personnel at the Nature Reserve, the local cycling club and the Police; soon after the briefing at 20h30 a search team of 20 is dispatched on a rescue operation but they come back empty handed just after 23h30.

My sheltered hut seems to keep me warm enough, but only until 23h00 when a light wind picks up and temperature drop drastically to 6°. Luckily for me, when we set off for our training ride earlier in the day, as the morning was still chilly I decided to wear an under-vest, long jersey and pants, a beanie and long gloves, my saving grace.

Although my body was telling me to sleep and rest my mind switched to survivor mood and having packed the hut with more fynbos branches I lye down in the fetus position to keep my body warm.

I survived a cold sleepless night and my new day was welcomed by the most amazing sunrise which lit all the surrounding mountains with some warm sun rays.

At 05h30 I climbed the rock above my hut to get my bearing right; in front of me I still see the white cement tower but further on its left I can spot a winding road above the mountain; my mind is set on reaching that road and started to study a route from my view point. I type a message to Clive and Tina which I will send as soon as I have cellphone reception, probably only once I reach the road. My target is too reach the safety point by 10h00.

At 06h00, Merida on my shoulder, I resume my Epic training!!! The first stream crossing I reach I quench my thirst with fresh water, refill the only water bottle left (the second one was lost through a rocky descent)  and wash my face, more of a wake up call then anything else; in the meantime, back in Wellington, rescue operation has resumed, and  a decision to bring a chopper is taken, not one but two.

Clive decides to hire a friend's chopper and follow our training route while the rescue chopper flies over and around Bains Kloof pass.

With some difficulties I have descended the rock from where I sheltered overnight and by 07h30  I am starting the ascend towards the road which is still on my sight but so far away; attempt to delivered the message typed earlier fail repetitiously as reception is not found.

By 08h30 I reach a plateau just below the road; my attempt to reach the road by 10h00 seems to be on schedule. I decide to take a short break to recoup my energy when I hear the familiar sound of an helicopter blades; to my disappointment it is not the traditional red colour of a rescue helicopter, it is blue but is hovering above me so I start waving my arms.

Photo taken from the Blue helicopter. Below the arrow is me and the Merida

In the blue helicopter there is riding partner Clive, pilot Ross and good friend Tom; they radio the Rescue helicopter my co-ordinates and five minutes later, the familiar Red rescue chopper appears from behind the mountain in a scene that reminds me of the great Francis Ford Coppola's blockbuster Apocalypse Now!!.

I am overwhelmed with emotions and relief but still determine to reach the road, so while I wait for the Rescue helicopter's crew to finalize their rescue operation I keep on climbing.

By 8h45 the paramedic from the Rescue chopper starts descending towards me, a fellow mountain biker, reassure me that he will first hoist me to safety and then come back to rescue my Merida!!!

Finally landing to safety

My Absa Cape Epic training ends at 09h15 when I finally lands just outside Wellington. Although tiring, unexpected and tough at times, this training has taught us a few lessons; always stay with your partner and ride on marked tracks.
However we have also learned that we can trust each other, we are determined, committed, mentally and physically strong.

So Absa Cape Epic 2015.......here we come.

Team Grand Dedale Penetron

  

Press Release - Grand Dédale winner of Best Hotel at SATOA Travel Awards 2014

Grand Dédale Country House Winner of Best Hotel less then 20 rooms SATOA Travel Awards 2014
Grand Dédale Country House Wellington, South Africa, Wednesday 24th September 2014 Grand Dédale Country House continue to shines as of the leading Country House and Boutique Hotel in South Africa as it wins the prestigious Best Hotel (with less than 20 rooms) in the SATOA Travel Awards 2014. "This award is the best gift for our 5th birthday and it recognizes our hard work, passion and dedication in establishing Grand Dédale as the leading Country House and Boutique Hotel in South Africa" says Angelo Casu, whom with wife Tina, manages and owes Grand Dédale Country House. “The award has also a special meaning to us as it is given by peers in the Travel industry, a testimony that our goal and commitment to position not only our establishment but Wellington as a winelands destination, has been achieved" continues Angelo Casu. The SATOA Travel Awards are designed to reward companies and/or individuals for the quality of their products and/or their valuable input in the destinations promoted by SATOA (Africa and Indian Ocean).  About Grand Dédale Country House Grand Dédale Country House nestles snugly in the centre of this picturesque labyrinth of mountain ranges, vineyards and forests allowing guests the delicious opportunity to cocoon themselves away from the rest of the world, and to do so in utter luxury and comfort. At the heart of the Doolhof Wine Estate, the sensitively restored Manor House continues its tradition of CapeDutch hospitality by welcoming a whole new generation of guests looking to get away from it all. The white gabled exterior of the Manor House retains its classic early CapeDutch appearance, while the interior, by contrast, is a wonderfully eclectic mix of modern design elements punctuated by European and Asian antiques, grand statement pieces and small oddities. A colour palette of cool white, with blue and muted green accents creates an elegant ambience, while inviting sofas encourage guests to linger awhile over an interesting book or to gaze out of the window at breathtaking mountain or vineyard views. This attention to comfort and elegance continues in the three ‘Elegant Living’ suites. Each one boasts its own distinct feel but all three share a luxurious sense of space and an attention to the finer details in life, such as extra length king size beds complete with percale cotton linen, i-Pod docking stations and under-floor heating. An architectural spiral staircase leads one to the three ‘Loft Living’ rooms, each facing a different mountain range and beautifully appointed under the Manor House’s sweet smelling thatch. A stay in one of these attic rooms has an added storybook feel to it, complete with fine furnishings, romantic Victorian bathtubs and walk-in cupboards. The quaint Old Wine House – a freestanding thatched stone cottage – dates from 1707, and is an ideal hideaway for honeymoon couples or those guests craving that extra bit of privacy. A fully equipped kitchen, private patio and minibar complete the experience. Delicious ‘Cap Classique’ continental breakfast buffets, light lunches, homemade high tea treats, sundowner canapés and three-course candlelit silver service dinners – dining at Grand Dédale is definitely an elegant affair. Our Resident Chef has a deep love for the Wellington area, and it shows in her menu, which is largely inspired by locally sourced produce, such as her current favourite ingredient: authentic buffalo mozzarella from Wellington’s own Buffalo Ridge; one of only two farms in the southern hemisphere producing mozzarella from original Italian buffalo. It features strongly on the menu, as does classic Cape seafood and game, all artfully paired with the estate’s own wines. Less than an hour’s drive from Cape Town, Wellington is a quirky destination that is often overlooked by tourists, but which promises a host of interesting attractions, from the organic farms that supply Grand Dédale’s kitchens to nature and game reserves, wine estates and even its own brandy route. Situated just outside this historic town, Grand Dédale is perfectly placed to offer visitors not only a base from which to explore the region, but also one to return to and forget the world for a while. . For more information contact Grand Dédale Country House info@granddedale.com or visit their website www.granddedale.com   .

Recipe of the month - Peppered Springbok loin, deep fried three cheese gnocchi, beetroot cubes and red wine jus

To prepare the gnocchi (serving 4) • 4 large potatoes • 3 large eggs • 3 Tablespoons flour • 1 heaped tablespoon baking powder • 200grams of cheese of your choice • 150ml fresh cream Boil the potatoes (whole and in their skins) until soft. Allow to cool, then peel and coarsely grate into a large bowl. You can also use a potato ricer. Whisk the eggs and add them to the potatoes with the flour, baking powder and salt and the grated cheese. Mix well to form a soft, but not too sticky, dough. Sprinkle some flour onto a board and start rolling pieces of the dough into long thin sausages – about 1/2 ” in diameter. Slice these into 2 cm pieces. Heat the oil in a frying pan and deep-fry the gnocchi until golden brown. They can be served immediately or reheated (uncovered) in the oven to regain their crispiness. if you prefer an healthier option, you can cook the gnocchi in a pot of boiling salted water. Put only five or six into the pot at a time, as you want the water to boil continuously.  Before plating, in a sauce pan reduce cream and add the gnocchi‎ for 2 minutes,  season and serve. To prepare the beetroot • 200 gr baby beetroot • 50 gr salted butter • Seasoning Boil the beetroot until soft, peel, and cut into 1 cm cubes;  saute with butter and season before serving To prepare the springbok • 800 gr springbok fillet or sirloin • 50 gr crushed black pepper • seasoning Season and sprinkle the Springbok with crushed black pepper until covered; heat medium size pan with a splash of extra virgin olive oil and seal the meat for three minutes on each side. Finish in a hot oven, 220 degrees, for 5 minutes

48 hours in Wellington

48 Hours in Wellington

Plan your next weekend getaway with this guide to the Cape Winelands’ best kept secret

Capetonians and visitors to the Mother City are absolutely spoiled for choice when it comes to options for quick weekend getaways in the Western Cape, and many often opt to flock to fabulous Franschhoek or sweet little Stellenbosch for their mini escapes. Where they should be headed though, if they’re looking for a unique break and a somewhat old-school Cape Winelands experience, is Wellington, a dorpie at the foot of the Groenberg Mountain and just about an hour from the big city.

No longer worthy of its former reputation as “Wellington Smellington” (because of the odour from the town’s old leather tannery), the vineyard village is truly at the heart of South Africa’s wine industry, not just geographically, but also because most of the country’s rootstock material for vines comes from the local farms. As one local says, “it all starts in Wellington.” 

You’ll be pleasantly surprised to find more things to see, taste, smell and experience than you could actually fit into 48 hours, and best of all, Wellington still has that undiscovered, undisturbed charm forever gone from its commercially popular Winelands counterparts, so this is where you go when you’re looking for something a little left of centre (this one’s for you Hipsters). 

And to make (re)discovering Wellington a little bit easier, we’ve put together a guide to how best to spend your weekend away. Get reading and then get packing, because as any experienced holidaymaker knows, hidden gems don’t stay hidden for very long.

WELLINGTON IS A PLACE FOR...

...A decent dose of culture and history

Wellington, which is named after the British duke who defeated Napoleon at Waterloo, developed through the ages from being a border town for the Cape Colony to a hub for academia, a centre for the leather and piano-making industries and then eventually to the destination for wine connoisseurs and casual weekenders that it is today.

Start your visit with a glimpse of this history at the Wellington Museum on Church Street, which houses a small collection of local artefacts from the bygone era. Here you can learn the importance of the town’s train station or browse the titles of books written by and about Andrew Murray, the man whose likeness is captured in a statue sitting at the front of the town’s big, holy centrepiece. Considered to be the father of education in Wellington, this Scotsman is also recognised as a spiritual leader whose teachings attract disciples from as far as China. The museum also has surprising, unexpected (for this neck of the woods anyway) exhibits, like one of the largest Egyptology collections in Southern Africa and relics from the ancient lives of Sotho and Tswana tribal folk.

For a taste of Wellington’s modern heritage, there’s the Breytenbach Centre. The building, which was the former home of writer and painter Breyten Breytenbach, was bought by the town for the princely sum of R10 so it could be turned into a haven for local and visiting arty types. Drop in on the right Saturday and you might happen on an exhibit opening in the upstairs gallery featuring work by a local painter, or pop into the gift shop for beautiful, quirky Wellington-made ceramics and glassware. The multi-purpose centre also has a little restaurant theatre in the back called Die Bordienghuis where jazz and blues musicians entertain and brave open-micers serenade audiences on Tuesdays.

If you’re a bit of a shopper, it’s also worth checking out Redemption Leather, a reminder of the town’s tannery past where you can find one-of-a-kind, handmade shoes and bags.

...Good Shiraz...  

Wellington is wine country after all, so it would be practically indecent not to go for a tasting or two. The difference here is that you’re more likely to encounter boutique estates and family-owned farms, which means that you won’t be sampling run-of-the-mill reds and whites. Take for exampleAndreas Boutique Wine Estate: they only produce a Shiraz that has quite a cult following among local connoisseurs and therefore sells out each year (bookings for a tasting have to be made by appointment, and the farm isn’t open on weekends).

A more accessible option is the family-friendly Dunstone Winery, which sits pretty along Bovlei Road together with several more Wellington estates. The Shiraz, Merlot and special Rosé (it’s made with 100% Shiraz grapes) are tenderly crafted by hand, and behind the farm’s tasting room and its Stone Kitchen restaurant is a mini fairy-tale world with a jungle gym, sandpits, giant pillows and blankets on the green grass and the scent of ripe guavas wafting gently in the air. Needless to say, it’s perfect for little ones, and a little exploration will reveal a hidden pond with white, orange-billed ducks preening themselves near the reeds.

While you’re on a serious tasting mission, be sure to call ahead and make an appointment for some sipping and sampling at Bosman Family Vineyards. The eighth-generation farming clan are known for their highly ethical, fair-trade productions, and that genuine goodness comes through in their signature vinos.

...and an old-fashioned dop

If you don’t have a taste for wine (and even if you do), an absolute must-try while you’re in Wellington is a sampling of the gins, vodkas, brandies and absinthe at Jorgensen’s Distillery. Also by appointment only, a visit to Roger and Dawn Jorgenson’s home and magic potion workshop will leave you with a new appreciation for the production of liquor. The master distiller is ultra passionate about the fragrant plants that go into the old-school-made alcohol (there are several vintage copper potstills on the property, one of which is still in use), and he’ll give you a history lesson, a botany lesson and a lesson in distillation all in one. You’ll be surprised to find that gin can actually taste good.

...Long, lazy lunches, brunches and dinners

Wellington’s slow country life lends itself to lavish lunching on a stoep out in the sun or cosying up with a bowl of something warm next to a fireplace, and fortunately, you won’t be too hard pressed to find a spot to do both. The recently opened (2012) Twist Some More restaurant comes recommended by pretty much any local you care to ask, probably because its blackboard menu concept is a novel idea in Wellington and the food is simply drool-worthy. The offerings change daily based on what fresh ingredients the chef has in the pantry, but a much-loved constant is the Wild Boar, Apple and Sage Burger, which was voted among the Top 20 Burgers in the Western Cape. The kids will love the tree house jungle gym, and moms and dads can watch them while sipping on local wines that go rather well with the sumptuous eats.

To go along with the wine and dine theme, you can also head to Kleinevalleij Estate’s Festa restaurant for some hearty “boerekos (farm food) with a twist”, as Chef Tina Maritz describes the fare. The scenic property has chairs on the edge of its vineyard, where you can simply sit and soak in a stunning sunset while sipping on something grapey.

And where to for dinner? Well, Oude Wellington is a bit of an institution and beyond just serving up homey food inspired by classic French cooking (apparently the pork belly is to die for), the restaurant dishes up a generous dose of good old-fashioned country hospitality. The eatery is housed in a 200-year-old converted chicken barn and run by husband and wife team John and Susanna Tecklenburg. She is the resident hug-giver, with an ever ready shoulder for the teary, while he may join you with a brandy at the stammtisch, a small, round table where strangers ring the bell, share a round of shots and become friends.

...Outdoor adventures and MTB

Once you’re away from the centre of town and Wellington’s farming industria, the valley rises and falls with rows of grapevines and pristine green hills that roll out to reveal a stunning landscape all the way to the mountains. A drive up the Bainskloof Pass will give the most spectacular vantage point, and the summit makes for one helluva sunset spot.

If you’re more content doing rather than just watching, bring along your mountain bike and explore the scenic trails. Permits (they’re R40) for each of the four routes are available from Welvanpas’s cute coffee shop, called Die Ou Meul ,and you can pick up a map as well as homemade preserves and chutney or olive oil and peppadews for the road. 

...Fun campouts

True outdoor enthusiasts can camp out at the site at the bottom of the Bainskloof Pass or just make home at Bainskloof corner, an all-in-one resort and a great springboard from which to do some hiking or appreciate Wellington’s natural surroundings. And for folks who want to have a quintessentially African experience, Bontebok Ridge showcases the local wildlife living amongst the fynbos on morning and evening game drives. 

 ...Good old-fashioned country living

Just so you know, if you stay at Grand Dédale Country House during your visit to Wellington, you might find yourself forgoing all of the above plans and choosing to unplug and indulge in luxury at the beautiful manor for the entire time instead.

The five-star, seven-room house is situated at Doolhof Wine Estate, which means ‘labyrinth’ in Afrikaans, and with a horse paddock, a little field of grazing cattle and an actual labyrinth on site, the entire scene is so pastoral William Wordsworth could write volumes of sonnets about it. Visitors will get a floating-on-feathers feeling from the second they step into the immaculate front room, though a friendly purr from the resident cats should help bring them back down to earth and make it feel a little more like home (if home is an opulent Old Cape Dutch-style house straight out of a story book fantasy).

A stay here includes lavish breakfasts, a full high tea spread in the afternoons and sumptuously satisfying three-course dinners served either on the manor’s front porch in the summer time, or in cosy spots around the house in winter. Picture days spent lounging under the sun next to the gorgeous pool area and nights cuddling up in one of the soft, plush beds or soaking in a footed bathtub. Not to mention, since guests can help themselves to cool drinks and refreshing wines from the perpetually stocked communal fridges on both floors of the house, there truly isn’t a reason to ever leave.

This is where loved up honeymooners go to revel in the glow of their new nuptials, where long term couples come to celebrate another year together, and where luxury-loving holiday-makers know they have absolutely nothing to worry about.  

If you’re looking for a more affordable alternative but with the same kind of country hospitality,Bakkies B&B will hit the spot, and many agree that the breakfast is more than marvellous.

Visit Wellington.co.za for more accommodation options.

Extra top tips: Wellington’s equivalent to Cape Town’s Mzoli’s, Chippa’s Place, is where those looking for roads less travelled and authentic township jams can go for a shisa nyama jol. You get to choose the meat, which will braaied with secret signature spices and brought to your table.

If you’re into design, fabrics and finding out how things work, visit Quenti Alpaca Farm for a look at what it takes to go from cute sheep-like creatures to even cuter socks, sweaters and hats. Do note that you’ll have to call ahead if you want to drop by.

WELLINGTON WESTERN CAPE DIRECTORY

• The Wellington Museum: Cnr College and Church Streets | +27 (0) 21 873 4710 | Monday – Friday: 8am – 4pm; Saturday – Sunday: By appointment only
• Breytenbach Centre: 14 Burger Street | +27 (0) 21 873 2786 | Monday – Friday: 9am – 5pm/ 10am – 5pm (gallery and gift shop)
• Redemption Leather: Bainskloof Road | +27 (0) 21 873 3197 | Monday – Friday: 8am – 5:30pm; Saturday: 8am – 1pm
• Andreas Boutique Wine Estate: Bovlei Road | +27 (0) 21 873 2286 | Monday – Friday: By appointment only
• Dunstone Winery: Bovlei Road | +27 (0) 21 873 6770 | Monday – Tuesday: By appointment; Wednesday – Sunday: 8am – 5pm
• Bosman Family Vineyards: Bovlei Road | +27 (0) 21 873 3170 | Monday – Friday: By appointment
• Jorgensen’s Distillery: Versailles Farm, Regent Road | +27 (0) 21 864 1777 or +27 (0) 82 564 2512 | Monday – Saturday: By appointment
• Twist Some More: Hexberg Road | +27 (0) 21 864 1467 | Wednesday – Friday: 12pm – 3pm & 6pm – 8pm; Saturday: 8:30am – 3pm & 6pm – 8pm; Sunday: 8:30am – 3pm
• Festa Restaurant: Bainskloof Road| +27 (0) 21 873 0075 | Wednesday: 9am – 4pm; Saturday and Sunday: 9am – 3pm;  Thursday – Friday: 9am – 10pm
• Oude Wellington Restaurant: Bainskloof Road | +27 (0) 21 873 2009 | Monday – Sunday: 12pm – 3pm & 6pm – 9pm
• Welvenpas: Bovlei Road | +27 (0) 21 864 1239 | Tuesday – Friday: 8am – 5pm; Saturday – Sunday: 8am – 3pm
• Grand Dédale Country House on Doolhof Wine Estate: Bovlei Road | +27 (0) 21 873 4089 | Check-in is from 2pm
• Chippa’s Place: 4895 Mahojane Street | +27 (0) 82 454 0585 | Monday – Thursday: 8am – 11pm; Friday – Sunday: 8am – late